Laylet el Eid (the Night of Eid) by Umm Khoultum

The diva does it again. Festive song for a festive season.

Eid Fireworks

From the early morning of Eid, the fireworks begin to pop off (the sort of "caps" that children are banned from playing with in Canada since I was a child), following the Eid prayer, it is as if a tempestuous storm has traveled through - with the frequent whizzing of fiery crackers and the smoky air they leave in their wake.

Amazing Courage

Striking Colours

Sometimes I believe that the striking intensity and wild mixtures of colors used in Egypt is because of the bold bright hues of the flowers that cover the land.

 

Egyptian Salad

Egyptian salad usually has delicious vegetables, nice spices and vinegar dressing (including cumin plus a mix of spices you can buy in the grocery store called "mixed spice") and the bits of vegetables are usually cut up super small and yummy.

Amazing Street Festivals

Street festivals in Egypt are really incredible. The below pictures were both taken from the Korba district in Heliopolis. The street gets super-packed with youth, music-makers, face-painters, food n' drink vendors, book-sellers, craftspeople, parents with kids, sidewalk artists, drummers and booty shakers. As the day progresses and the sun wanes, the crowds spill in overflowing in a jittery chattery loud but peace-loving rabble, standing room only.

Sayeda Zeinab Mosque

Ceiling in the ladies section of Sayeda Zeinab

The following quote is from Naguib Mahfouz's book "The Mirage", describing a sublime experience experienced by the protagonist within the Sayeda Zeinab Mosque:

"My nostrils were penetrated by a sweet aroma that may have been some perfumes being sprayed by a magzub, while the sounds of the supplications being made by those circumambulating the shrine filled its corners with melodic echoes. A sheikh passed near me chanting verses from the Holy Qur'an in a hushed voice, and I remembered how I'd fallen away from the religion's obligatory rites to the point where the only thing I did regularly anymore was to fast during Ramadan. I thought to myself: If I returned to the right guidance found in the prescribed prayers, might not my heart find serenity and assurance, and might I not experience relief from the burden of anxiety and fear? Despite the pain it had endured, my heart had continued to find refuge in the prophets and the guidance they brought, and to drink deeply from a wellspring of cool, pure waters. I was flooded with a tranquility so profound, I wanted to soak up all I could of the wholesome, untainted serenity that I was experiencing in those moments. In that peace-induced rapture, my sufferings appeared to me as nothing but a fine threat in the fabric of destiny's invincible sway over all that is, and I was drawn into a state of contentment and surrender. A cloudlessness of the spirit set my soul in an upward spiral until I reached a pinnacle of bliss beyond anything I'd ever hoped for."

Beautiful Fountains

The below pictures are taken from Al Azhar Park and are all recent, however Egypt has many historic fountains dating back centuries. You can learn more about the history of such fountains when you are visiting Egypt by a trip to Cairo's Islamic Museum.

For another fabulous modern version of fountains in Egypt - check out Chocolate Mania Egypt for chocolate fountains. Yum.

Jolt yourself awake with coffee

In Eid, after fasting the month of Ramadan and going out to the cafes or in the comfort of the home, it is great to remember the gift of Egyptian strong coffee and strong tea. Even the Latte Macchiatos are stronger here.

Eid Sweets

Kahk is not the only sweet stockpiled and devoured during Eid. There are many many delights consumed during this sweet holiday season. During the Eid prayer, people walk amongst the people praying and hand out sweet dates, bonbons, cookies, etc. Here is a picture of a few of the festive offerings from the bakeries:

Kahk

Kahk is an Arabian dessert eaten at Eid-ul-Fitr that reminds me of cookies that my grandmother used to make us at Christmas-time in Canada: buttered walnut-balls. The walnut balls are more round (Kahk is flattened a bit), they were also much more "solid" and dry (Kahk on the other hand is very light and melts in your mouth). Apart from that they are just about the same, although most Kahk don't have walnuts in them (though you can find some with crushed nuts in the center, or with dates or other jellies).

Kahk ready to go home!

Rows upon rows of deeeeeelicious Kahk

You can try to make them yourselves by following this Kahk recipe from Al Ahram.

Eid Perfume

Source: Tour Egypt Article:
The Flowers of Ancient Egypt and Today

Egyptians have a long history of creating and wearing beautiful perfumes and using incense. During Eid ul Fitr, Muslims wear sweet perfumes in addition to eating sweet desserts along with the feast, in celebration of the conclusion of the holy month of Ramadan.

The Prophet Muhammad said: Made beloved to me from your world are women and perfume, and the coolness of my eyes is in prayer. (Ahmad and An-Nasa ‘i)

Some other beautiful quotes about perfume in the spirit of Eid ul Fitr:

If you go to the garden of the Heart,

You'll have beautiful perfume like a rose.

If you fly to the sky,

Your face will turn into a moon like the angels.

- Rumi

Eating out on the first day of Eid-ul-Fitr

After fasting from sunrise to sunset for an entire month, it is a wonderful feeling to wake up and go out and have breakfast or sit in a cafe during the day with friends and family!

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Eid Prayer

The Eid prayer is one of the most beautiful prayers in Islam. It begins at sunrise of the morning of the first day of Eid.

The people gather nearby the mosques, but prayer is held outside in nature, under the wakening sunshine and over the grass (in Egypt, large carpets with festive design are lain down over the ground to keep people dry from the morning dew as they pray and to keep clean). 

Before the actual prayer, the people chant prayer together (sort of like one massive outdoors choir), with different people taking turns at the microphone which leads the crowd, voices ringing in unison across the landscape. Children run about through the crowds of people. 

Everyone is dressed in their finest clothes or beautiful prayer gowns, as the prayer goes on you can hear the laughter of children and the calls of awakening birds around you, while the people stand shoulder to shoulder with one another, giving greeting and sweet tidings for the year ahead. 

Buying Clothes for Eid

Every Eid, Egyptians go shopping ahead of time to have new clothes to wear for the holiday. It is also a chance to do an annual (or bi-annual if you do it for both Eids) "spring-cleaning", getting out with the old and in with the new, not just clothing, but bedsheets, towels, etc. The below are scenes from downtown Cairo Pre-Eid Shopping.

Koneifa

Koneifa is soooooooooo fabulous. And when it is mixed with a layer of eshta, it skyrockets right off the fabulousness chart.

Pistachios top off the rapturous perfection that is Koneifa with Esta

Basically, Koneifa is tiny bits of shredded phyllo dough baked and covered with gooey sugary love. It sort of reminds me of eating Shredded Wheat cereal - but only a whole lot more yummy and sinful for the waistline.

Maschi

Speaking of vegan delights,

Maschi is an amazing Egyptian dish. Basically maschi is a general term that applies to 

a variety of lovely rice&spice stuffed vegetables including zucchini, aubergine (which are are available in slim small sizes in both purple and white in Egypt), peppers, cabbage (like miniature cabbage rolls, with less tomato sauce), and rolled grape leaves. They are delicious, fabulously addictive, and great to take "on the go" for picnics or other travel. (Indeed, my sister-in-law always tells me that you can always identify Egyptian families at airports, because the mothers are the ones chasing after their children waving them down with the maschi they are trying to get them to eat). Maschi sometimes has meat in it (so watch out if you are vegetarian/vegan), though mostly I've seen it prepared without.

Fasting

Egyptians, when you combine Muslims and Christians together, probably have the world record for most days of fasting per year. According to the Encyclopedia Coptica, Coptic Christians alone fast 210 days a year. Wow. Talk about self-discipline.

Around 60 of those days Copts live on a vegan diet, and for the rest they may eat fish but refrain from other meat or animal products and similar to Muslims also refrain from eating food from sunrise to sunset (see Marie Henein's great article for some excellent recipes and info on veganism in the Coptic Church). The Coptic Church sees fasting and asceticism in a positive spiritual light, as an emulation of the life of Jesus (Matt. 4:2), and also of Moses and Elijah (Exod. 40:28; 1 Kings 19:8), and a sublimation to the glory of God and an expression of love.

As with the Coptic Christians, Muslims in Egypt view fasting in a highly positive sense. Fasting during Ramadan is one of the five pillars of Islam. The time of fasting is not just about abstaining, but also about doing good deeds, increasing compassion and mercy for the suffering of others, developing self-control, and love of others and of God. "O you who believe! Fasting is prescribed for you as it was prescribed for those before you, that you may become Al-Muttaqun (the pious)."  [Soorah al-Baqarah (2):183] Muslims also fast outside of Ramadan as well, though it is not required of them unless they are making up for days lost during Ramadan (as in the case of travel for example, wherein they are exempt). Read this nice article on: "The fasting of Ramadan: A time for Thought, Action and Change!"

Ramadan Iftar Parties

Iftar, made huge and fabulous.

Iftar

Iftar is the meal that Muslims share with their friends and family during Ramadan as they are breaking their fast from sunrise to sunset. Everyone sits together in anticipation, and at the sound of the Magreb (sunset) adhan (or in Egypt - the cannon!) everyone begins to dine together, starting first with Khoshev, and then getting to the main course and afterwards sweets.

Prayer Carpets

The five times of prayer a day in Islam are meant to be a direct channel of communication between a person and God. As such, Muslims have ritual washing (wudu) before prayer, among which is cleaning the feet, and also standing on a clean carpet before praying to God. Prayer carpets have a nice velvety soft feeling under your feet, and are often made of bright colors. This picture is taken from a store just outside of Khan al Khalili. Note, prayer carpets are not essential for praying, here in Egypt you will often see people praying in the grass for example, over "nature's carpet" (especially the case for the Eid prayer), though carpets are added over the grass too when available.

Knitted Caps

Varieties of knitted caps for sale just outside of
Al Hussein Mosque next to Khan al Khalili

Personally, I think these are great. They make me think of Bakar, the cute little Egyptian cartoon. Men in Muslim countries wear such hats in emulation of the Prophet Muhammad, however wearing head coverings is a tradition that predates Islam in Arabia - which seems natural, since it is so well-fitting to the geography in protecting the skull from the sun's strong rays, and keeping in body heat during the cold desert nights.

Dishes with Béchamel

When you hear the word béchamel, usually you think of a wafter thin sauce that lightly coats pasta. In Egypt - not so!

Béchamel in Egypt is THICK, maybe an inch or up to an inch and a half. It is so thick it does not coat the pasta, but sits broadly atop it, like a proud king regally sitting atop his thrown, crowned with a golden layer where the oven bakes it to fabulous perfection.

Béchamel can cover pasta, and in this case there is usually a layer of meat added, and occasionally a thin layer of tomato sauce as well (depending on how your family prefers it) and even sometimes a bit of cheese. It is also used in other dishes with ground beef, such as fried aubergine or fried zucchini (yum, yum and more yum). The most delicious dishes of "casserole" I've ever had.

Barbecued sweet potatoes

One word: Fabulous.

Egyptian tea

Like most things in Egypt: Strong - and packed with sugar.

Uum Ali

Uum Ali, when well prepared, is one of the best - and more calorific - desserts you will ever feast on. Puff pastry, heavy cream, pistachios, almonds, pine nuts, condensed milk all cooked to a golden crisp in the oven (think of the taste of marshmallows over the campfire, peeled back to reveal lots of other melt-in-your-mouth yummy stuff added inside that forms a sweet bread-pudding-like milky goodness)

The Story of Uum Ali, so I've been told, is quite interesting as well, a historic tale of a fight over ascension to the thrown in Egypt and a mother (Uum Ali, the Mother of Ali) desperate to secure her son's place, driven to murder another woman with a ShipShip (wooden sandal used for the baths).

I am not sure how this nasty story got associated with this heavenly dessert... :( but most certainly don't let that stop you from eating it!

The dancing horse

Egypt has amazing horses, but this is a horse of a different kind. At celebrations where dance troupes come to perform, the dancing horse is a signature part of such evenings, a delight to all of the children in the audience, and drawing laughter and giggles as the mischievous horse goes around kissing people, tapping them on the head, cradling babies, and dancing with the other dancers and sometimes audience members.

New heroes born each day

I think Egypt has had a lot of unsung heroes for a long time now, but after Jan25 they are beginning to surface more and more. Egyptians are starting to realize their potential to redefine limits, to do the impossible, to stretch the folds of their own imagination, and to allow themselves to reinvent themselves as heroes.


For more on the redefining of heroes in the Arab world, read this article from the BBC on TEDGlobal talk 2011 by Suleiman Bakhit.

McDelivery

In Egypt, you can have anything delivered to your doorstep. Fast food, pharmacy, full restaurants, bakeries, groceries, etc. I'm not a big fan of McDonald's, but I am a big fan of delivery. These cute little delivery trucks fill the roadways of Egypt. Considering the Cairo roadways - McDonald's on wheels gives new meaning to the phrase "fast food".





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